Enoshima Shrine (江島神社)

Enoshima Shrine (江島神社) is a Shinto shrine in the Enoshima District of Fujisawa, Kanagawa Prefecture.  It consists of three main shrine buildings—Okutsu-miya (奥津宮), Nakatsu-miya (中津宮), and Hetsu-miya (辺津宮)—which enshrine the three sister goddesses Tagirihime-no-Mikoto (多紀理比賣命), Ichikishimahime-no-Mikoto (市寸島比賣命), and Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto (田寸津比賣命).  These kami (deities), collectively known as Enoshima Okami (江島大神) and historically referred to as Enoshima Myojin (江島明神), later became associated with the kami Benzaiten (弁財天).  As a result, they came to be worshipped as Enoshima Benzaiten, kami of the ocean and water who also bring prosperity and success in the arts.

Enoshima (江の島)

There are various legends about the formation of Enoshima.  According to Enoshima Engi, on April 12, 552, the earth trembled continuously until the morning of April 23.  During the tremble, a celestial maiden, accompanied by fifteen child deities, appeared and created Enoshima.  It is said under Emperor Kinmei's imperial command, a kami was enshrined in the cave in Enoshima, marking the foundation of Enoshima Shrine.

Later, in 700, a Buddhist ascetic named En no Ozunu entered seclusion in the cave and received divine inspiration, establishing the site as a sacred training site for Shugendo.  Following him, it is said famous monks such as Taicho, Dochi, Kukai, Annen, and Nichiren also practiced ascetic training in the cave, seeking divine blessings.  In 814, Kukai built Iwaya Hongu in the cave, and in 853, Ennin built Kami-no-miya.  Later, in 1206, Ryoshin petitioned Minamoto no Sanetomo to build Shimo-no-miya.

When seawater enters the cave during the period from April to October, the honzon of Iwaya Hongu is moved to a temporary enshrinement site which was called Hongu Otabisho up until the Edo period.  Though the exact date of its founding is unknown, historical records suggest it was built during the 1600's.

During the Kamakura period, Minamoto no Yoritomo entered seclusion in the cave to pray for victory in battle and dedicated a Happi (eight-armed) Benzaiten statue and a torii.  Later, Emperor Go-Uda offered a chokugaku (imperial inscription)  in gratitude for repelling the Mongol invasions.  This solidified Benzaiten’s reputation as a kami of war, attracting many samurai from the eastern provinces to Enoshima.  Today, the Happi Benzaiten statue and the chokugaku are on display in the octagonal hall of Hoan-den (奉安殿).

As Japan entered a peaceful era during the Edo period, Enoshima Shrine's kami became to be worshipped as kami of arts, music, and wisdom, as well as kami of fortune and wealth.  It is said, in 1600, the first shogun of the Edo shogunate, Tokugawa Ieyasu, visited and prayed at the shrine for healing from illness, safe childbirth, and protection during travel.  This practice was past onto his successors.

In 1649, the shrine took the name Kinkizan Yoganji Temple, due to the syncretism of Buddhism and Shinto.

However, during the early Meiji period, based on the government's order to separate Shinto and Buddhism, Buddhist practices were completely abolished and the shrine was renamed Enoshima Shrine.  Iwaya Hongu and Hongu Otabisho were renamed Okutsu-miya, Kami-no-miya renamed Nakatsu-miya, and Shimo-no-miya renamed Hetsu-miya.

Bronze Torii (青銅の鳥居)

Bronze Torii (青銅の鳥居)

A bronze torii (shrine gate) stands at the entrance of Enoshima.  Originally built in 1747, the current one was reconstructed in 1821 through contributions from many donors, whose names are engraved on its pillars.  (The sign placed next to the torii explains the original torii was made of wood.)  This is the third torii along the path.  The first torii was located in front of Shojoko-ji Temple and the second on Subana Street, but this third torii is the only one that remains today.  The plaque on the torii, inscribed with "江島大明神" (Enoshima Daimyojin), is a replica of an imperial plaque bestowed by Emperor Go-Uda to commemorate the victory in the Bun'ei Campaign, the first attempt by the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty to invade Japan, in 1274.

Zuishin-mon (瑞心門)

Zuishin-mon (瑞心門)

Zuishin-mon (瑞心門) is a two-story gate standing over the stone steps leading to Hetsumiya.  It was modeled after Ryugujo, an undersea Dragon Palace from Japanese folklore and fairtales.

Hetsu-miya (辺津宮)

Hetsu-miya (辺津宮)

Hetsu-miya enshrines Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto and was originally founded in 1206 by Minamoto no Sanetomo, the shogun at the time, under the reign of Emperor Tsuchimikado.  It was rebuilt in 1675 and underwent a major renovation in 1976.  Its old name "Shimo-no-Miya" comes from the fact that it is standing at the lowest position of the three major shrine buildings.

Hoan-den (奉安殿)

Hoan-den (奉安殿)

Hoan-den (奉安殿) is an octagonal hall located within the Hetsumiya precinct, enshrining Happi Benzaiten and Myoon Benraiten. The hall is open daily from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM, and an admission fee is required for entry.

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社)

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社)

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社) is a subordinate shrine of Enoshima Shrine, located next to Hoan-den.  It enshrines Takehaya Susanoo-no-Mikoto (建速須佐之男命).  During the Edo period, it was known as Tenno-sha (天王社) and was renamed "Yasaka Shrine" in 1873.

The shrine's goshintai (sacred object) is a wooden statue of Takehaya Susanoo-no-Mikoto.  Originally, this statue was worshipped in Kosugoe on the opposite shore.  According to legend, it was swept away by large waves and sank into the sea in front of the cave. Later, a fisherman discovered the statue and enshrined it on Enoshima.

Inari-sha (稲荷社) & Akiba-sha (秋葉社)

Inari-sha (稲荷社) and Akiba-sha (秋葉社)

Located next to Yasaka Shrine are the subordinate shrines of Inari-sha (稲荷社) and Akiba-sha (秋葉社), enshrining Toyouke-hime-no-Mikoto (豊受気毘賣命) and Hi-no-Kagutsuchi-no-Kami (火之迦具土神).  These shrines were formed by merging several smaller shrines once scattered across Enoshima, including Akiba Inari (秋葉稲荷), Yosaburo Inari (与三郎稲荷), and Ryogo Inari (漁護稲荷).  It is said that during the Edo period, these kami were worshipped for protection against fire disasters, which were common at the time.

Nakatsu-miya (中津宮)

Nakatsumiya (中津宮)

Nakatsu-miya enshrines Ichikishimahime-no-Mikoto.  Founded in 853 by the Buddhist monk Ennin, it was originally called "Kami-no-miya" under the reign of Emperor Montoku.  In 1689, the fifth shogun of the Edo shogunate, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, rebuilt the shrine in the gongen-zukuri architectural style, consisting of the honden (main hall), heiden (offering hall), and haiden (worship hall).  The current shrine building was reconstructed in 1996 as part of a major renovation, restoring the vibrant vermilion color that was prominent in the Genroku era.

Okutsu-miya (奥津宮)

Honden of Okutsu-miya (奥津宮)

Haiden of Okutsu-miya

Okutsu-miya (奥津宮) enshrines Tagirihime-no-Mikoto, the eldest of three sister goddesses who protects the sea.  Located close to Iwaya Hongu in the cave, it was originally called Hongu Otabisho (a temporary resting place).  From April to October, when seawater would flow into Iwaya Hongu, the honzon was temporarily relocated to this Otabisho.

The original shrine building was a magnificent structure but was destroyed by fire in 1841 and reconstructed in 1842 which remains today.  The shrine's roof was restored in 1979 and the honden underwent a major renovation in 2011.

Happo Nirami no Kame (八方睨みの亀)

Standing separately in front of Okutsu-miya's honden (main hall) is its haiden (worship hall).  On the ceiling is "Happo Nirami no Kame" (八方睨みの亀), which literally translates to "All-Direction Glaring Turtle"—a painting that appears to stare back from any angle.  Originally created by the renowned Edo-period artist Sakai Hoitsu in 1803, the artwork was replaced in 1994 with a replica by Kayo Kataoka to protect it from deterioration.  The original painting has been designated a Tangible Cultural Property of Fujisawa City in 1971 and is now preserved in the shrine office.

Watatsumi-no-Miya (龍宮)

Watatsumi-no-Miya (龍宮)

Next to Okutsumiya stands Watatsumi-no-Miya (龍宮), positioned directly above Iwaya Hongu.  Built in 1993 through the devotion of worshippers, it honors the kami of the sea, reflecting Enoshima's deep-rooted connection to dragon and water kami.

Mo-Gumi Torii (も組鳥居)

Mo-Gumi Torii (も組鳥居)

The Mo-Gumi Torii (も組鳥居) was donated in 1848 by the Edo (modern-day Tokyo) fire brigade "Mo-Gumi" (も組).  The surface of the torii is decorated with a matoi pattern, a symbol used by Edo-period fire brigades.  In Edo, where fires were frequent, securing water for fire prevention was essential.  This torii was donated to seek the blessings of Benzaiten, who was revered as a kami of water.  The torii collapsed during the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake and was repaired in 1925.