Onabake Jinja (女化神社)

Onabake Jinja (女化神社)

Onabake Jinja (女化神社) is an Inari shrine located in the Nareumamachi District of Ryugasaki, Ibaraki Prefecture, enshring the kami Ukemochi-no-kami (保食神).  It is standing on an enclave of Ryugasaki surrounded by the Onabake District of Ushiku.

The origin of the shrine is somewhat unclear.  A wooden sign next to the shrine building states that it dates back to the Kenkyu era (1190–1198).  However, the website of Ibarakiken Jinjacho records its founding in 1509.

Onabake Jinja is closely tied to local folklore about a fox that transformed into a woman and married a man named Chugoro (忠五郎) or Chushichi (忠七), depending on the version of the story, who saved her life from a hunter.  The tale is believed to be the origin of the name Onabake (女化), where "女" means "woman" and "化" means "to transform."

The version on Ryugasaki's official website is as follows:

One day, a farmer named Chushichi saw a white fox being targeted by a hunter.  Feeling sorry for the fox, he distracted the hunter by coughing and then gave him the money he had on hand to spare the fox’s life.  Chushichi returned home.

That evening, a man around 50 years old and a woman around 20 appeared at Chushichi's doorsteps, asking for shelter for the night.  Chushichi and his family welcomed the strangers.

The next morning, the woman tearfully explained that she was from the Iwaki District in Oshu and had been traveling to Kamakura to visit her uncle.  However, during the night, her retainer ran away with all her money.  She asked if she could stay for a while, and Chushichi and his family agreed.

The woman proved to be a diligent helper, doing all the housework chores from helping in the fields to sewing.  She was also remarkably beautiful.  Chushichi and his family grew fond of her, and she eventually married into the household.

Eight years passed, and the couple had three children—7-year-old Otsuru, 5-year-old Kamematsu, and 3-year-old Takematsu.  However, the woman who had become a loving mother turned out to be the fox Chushichi had saved years before.

One day, while putting the children down for a nap, she accidentally dozed off and revealed her tail.  Realizing that her secret had been exposed, she decided to leave her family.

Devastated by the separation, she left behind a heartfelt poem:

みどり子の母はと問はば 女化の原に泣く泣く伏すと答えよ
English translation: If someone asks where the mother of these children has gone, tell them she left for Onabakegahara, weeping.

She tied the poem, written on paper, to the obi of her youngest child, Takematsu, and returned to the fields of Nemotogahara.

Saddened by her absence, Chushichi and the children frequently visited Nemotogahara, hoping to see her again.  Once, she briefly appeared at the entrance of her den but quickly retreated and was never seen again.

Understanding her resolve, the family eventually returned home and carried on with their lives.  The children grew up to be successful and respected individuals.

Because of this legend, Nemotogahara came to be known as Onabakegahara.

Shrine office

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